Essential Accessories for the Beginning Cyclist

Cycling isn't just about exercise, but also about outings with family and friends. It can also be a very good way of getting around: of commuting to work every day or doing your weekly shop. With the right accessories, you'll never find yourself unprepared on the road.

Below is the list of the most important accessories the beginning cyclist should consider buying to ensure both safety and efficiency of his/her riding experience. Some of these are more relevant to the utility cyclist (someone who rides short distances on a regular basis to get to work or do shopping), while some are more relevant to the cyclist who's riding for fun and fitness. I'll mention who it's most relevant for in the blurbs below.

Knowledge of how to ride safely

If you ride in towns, you need to know how to ride safely in traffic. This does not necessarily require a purchase, but if you want to buy a book you can either get John Franklin's Cyclecraft (more oriented towards UK riding) or John Forester's Effective Cycling (more oriented towards the US). If you don't want to spend any money you can read my article Bicycle Safety. If you are never riding in a town but are only riding on empty country lanes or offroad tracks, then you will not need to be an expert in riding in traffic, but it would be a good idea to have a look at my article anyway, as these skills can help make trips through villages safer.

Something to carry stuff

Everyone needs to carry things with them on a bike. If you're a utility rider, the main options are rucksack (aka backpack) and pannier. You've probably already got a rucksack, so no purchase is necessary. If you do buy a rucksack for utility riding, look for one that's brightly colored and has lots of reflective stuff on it to increase your visibility both night and day. Or you can buy a rucksack cover that's brightly colored and had lots of reflective stuff. Many people don't like to have anything on their backs when they ride, so a rack and panniers (bags that attach to racks with clips) are the way to go there. The longer your rides, and the heavier the load, the more important it is to get the weight off your back and onto the bike. If you buy a rack for your commuter bike, make sure you get one that has a light mounting plate on the back with holes 80mm apart, so you can mount a good rear light to it.

If you are a fun/fitness rider, your options are rucksack, saddlebag, or pockets. The rucksack option is useful when you are just starting out, since it means you can get going with one less purchase, but if you're going to be riding mainly on roads, you'll soon want that off your back. Offroad riders tend to use rucksacks that can carry water bladders (known as hydration packs or Camelbaks, after the most famous makers of these things), as water bottles tend to bounce off your bike and are more difficult to drink from when it's bumpy. If you go this route, make sure you get one with some space to carry bits and bobs (a basic toolkit, mobile phone, etc). Road riders usually either have a small pack under the seat to carry essentials, or if they are travelling really light, they will put just the bare minimum of stuff in the back pockets of thier jerseys (special cycling shirts).

Lock

If you are a utility cyclist, this is your first absolutely essential purchase (after the bike of course). The best lock for this use is a heavy hardened steel D-lock (aka U-lock in the US). Always lock your frame up to something, never just the wheels! Wheels can be easily taken off, and you might come back to find you have just a very securely locked wheel. Because wheels can be easily removed, if you have quick-release skewers on your utility bike, consider replacing them with Allen key ones. These make it more likely that your wheels will still be attached to your bike when you return to it. Alternatively, you can carry a cable lock as well to secure your wheels. Actually, it's a good idea to have a cable lock anyway if you will be locking your bike in different places, as it allows you to lock your bike to a tree or lamp post that your D-lock will not fit around.

If you're a fun/fitness cyclist, a lock will probably not be necessary when you first first start out, as you'll be doing fairly short rides that begin and end at your house, with no stops in between. But when you start doing longer rides you'll need to stop for refuelling, and cafes are ideal for this. Unless you can sit right nesxt to a window where you can keep an eye on your bike, it's best to lock it up. A thin light cable lock should be sufficient here.

Maintenance/Emergency Tools

Like any vehicle, a bicycle will require repairs from time to time and tire punctures are not uncommon on longer rides. I would say that if you are going for a ride longer than about 3 miles, then at the very least you will want to

State-of-the-Art Street Motorcycle Accessories

It is risky to trust just any motorcycle accessories. This is the reason why we have to be vigilant in choosing high-quality accessories to ensure security and protection.Every rider has his or her own different tastes when it comes to motorcycle accessories and the level of comfort needed. Most of the riders preferences depend on their gender, age and the type of terrain or road they are into every single day. Some wanted flashy colors while some solid colors. A certain rider may be in need of maximum comfort and protection while others may be needing moderate. Perhaps, the reason behind this is fragility, susceptibility to accidents and the likes. It is important that these needs are answered so as not to preempt an accident or a turbulent incident.Street motorcycles are heavy and fast motorcycles which are intended to be used for smooth surfaces. When you are out there rocking the road with these kinds of motorcycles, safety is a must. To keep you away from any untoward incident and accident, be equipped with the right street motorcycle accessories. Street motorcycle accessories can save your road performance!Street motorcycle accessories have come a long way since its inception. More and more options are made available to riders. In fact, individual differences and preferences are no longer considered a drawback because a wide-variety of options is laid down in stores.Street motorcycle accessories include cruiser grips accessories, exhausts, motorcycle sunglasses, open face helmets accessories, socks, boots, jackets, light bars, freeway bars, graphic kits, plastics, radiator braces, seat covers and skid plates for its body. In connection to its tires, there are tire irons, tire repair kits, tire flat prevention and tubes to ensure full support of the street motorcycle. Spirited industry led to the improvement of motorcycle accessories motorcycle accessories to cater to the bikers choice and to extend different designs like the ameritex fork bags, bikepack, ameritex round utility bag, tourbag/backpack/ssb and the ameritex tool bags.Going fast and in control is what makes riders feel ecstatic and powerful. In fact, riding with state-of-the-art motorcycle accessories gives an air of confidence. This experience can be very thrilling and fun. But this experience will not materialize has the street motorcycle accessories been inexistent to give the riders the protection and comfort they needed. These accessories are the reason why lots of riders feel comfortable even in their most bumpy ride.

Mini Motorcycle

Mini motorcycles are also known as pocket motorcycles. They have 25 or 50 cc engines and can run at a speed of 20 – 30 miles per hour. They weigh about 50 pounds and stand at a foot and a half high. They can be powered by oil, gas or electric engines and look exactly like a real motorcycle except they are smaller in size. The snazziest models cost thousands of dollars and come from Italy. Cheaper versions are produced in China, and cost from $200 to $500.Young and old people are attracted to mini motorcycles. They are great for college students and retired seniors to get around town. They are supposed to be used on closed racetracks, private roads or places where three are no public laws prohibiting their use. The less congested the area where a mini motorcycle is driven, the better. There are too many accidents involving mini motorcycles and cars, trucks and vans. The driver doesn’t stand a chance. Accidents occur because larger vehicles don’t see the mini motorcycle because of its low height.Many people like to use mini motorcycles nowadays as they are cheaper than a normal sized motorcycle, and they are more fuel-efficient. However, if children ride these mini motorcycles, it is advised for them to wear helmets. This is because every year, the main cause of children’s accidents comes from riding these types of vehicles. Both bodily and brain damage occurs when a child falls from a mini motorcycle. This is why there is a rule that a child must be at least 16 years of age to ride a motorized mini motorcycle.

Motorcycle Mileage Database

Visit any motorcycle forum on the Internet and you will generally see a thread about the number of miles a motorcyclist rides. Every now and then you will see someone who believes they have ridden over a million miles in their life time. In as much as a million miles would require a individual to ride 25,000 miles/year for 40 years, this is a pretty spectacular feat.As a way of tracking both my mileage as well as the mileages of others, I designed a Motorcycle Database for my website, Visit any motorcycle forum on the Internet and you will generally see a thread about the number of miles a motorcyclist rides. Every now and then you will see someone who believes they have ridden over a million miles in their life time. In as much as a million miles would require a individual to ride 25,000 miles/year for 40 years, this is a pretty spectacular feat.As a way of tracking both my mileage as well as the mileages of others, I designed a Motorcycle Database for my website, NCMotorcyclists, which allows a rider to enter information about themselves and their bikes. The database then automatically calculates the total miles ridden, the total number of days you owned the bike, and the average miles per day for each bike along with the aggregate totals for all of your bikes.Over the last seven years the database has continued to grow, particularly, in the long distance biker community, and now contains quite a bit of information. I think you will be amazed and impressed with some of the numbers. I have corresponded with a few of the top riders and have verified informally that they have, indeed, ridden those miles. Some are retired and some have long commutes to work. One rider is believed to have set a record for the most miles in one year (~126,000). If interested, visit www.ncmotorcyclists.com/miles_database.htm - it's free!, which allows a rider to enter information about themselves and their bikes. The database then automatically calculates the total miles ridden, the total number of days you owned the bike, and the average miles per day for each bike along with the aggregate totals for all of your bikes.Over the last seven years the database has continued to grow, particularly, in the long distance biker community, and now contains quite a bit of information. I think you will be amazed and impressed with some of the numbers. I have corresponded with a few of the top riders and have verified informally that they have, indeed, ridden those miles. Some are retired and some have long commutes to work. One rider is believed to have set a record for the most miles in one year (~126,000). If interested, visit Visit any motorcycle forum on the Internet and you will generally see a thread about the number of miles a motorcyclist rides. Every now and then you will see someone who believes they have ridden over a million miles in their life time. In as much as a million miles would require a individual to ride 25,000 miles/year for 40 years, this is a pretty spectacular feat.As a way of tracking both my mileage as well as the mileages of others, I designed a Motorcycle Database for the website, ncmotorcyclists, which allows a rider to enter information about themselves and their bikes. The database then automatically calculates the total miles ridden, the total number of days you owned the bike, and the average miles per day for each bike along with the aggregate totals for all of your bikes.Over the last seven years the database has continued to grow, particularly, in the long distance biker community, and now contains quite a bit of information. I think you will be amazed and impressed with some of the numbers. I have corresponded with a few of the top riders and have verified informally that they have, indeed, ridden those miles. Some are retired and some have long commutes to work. One rider is believed to have set a record for the most miles in one year (~126,000). If interested, visit miles_database - it's free!- it's free!

Future Motorcycle & One wheeled Motorcycle

Basic Guide to Maintenance Your Bike

Here we have a few things you should check on your motorcycle on a regular basis. I assume you have a handbook with the specs for your bike, if not, go get one. You may be able to find some data for your particular motorcycle on the net. You can also pick up workshop manuals for various models on eBay in PDF or CD form for little money.

Whereas with a four wheeled vehicle you may get away with being lax with things like tire pressures etc, this is not the case with a motorcycle. You should not risk compromising the safety and stability of your motorcycle, for the sake of a bit of routine maintenance.

Pre-ride check

* Tires - check condition and for foreign objects in the tread.

* Tire pressures - it is vitally important to keep your motorcycles tire pressures either on spec or very close to it.

* Oil level - always check with the bike on level ground.

* Coolant level - only if your bike's liquid cooled, obviously.

* Chain - check the tension and make sure it's well lubed.

* Brakes - check they work and that they feel good.

* Lights - check all your lights, especially the brake light, you
don't want to get rear ended, do you?

* Visual inspection - self explanatory.

* All ok - hit the road.

Periodical checks

* Check battery - see that the connections are tight; I dropped a bike once because of a loose battery connection, strange but true. Also check the electrolyte level on some batteries, a lot of newer batteries are gel filled, sealed for life types, so no need with these.

*Carb balance - if your bike is multi carbed get yourself a Morgan carbtune or similar. It can be a little tricky the first time you balance them, but when you've done it once, the second time will be easy.

*Ignition timing - only necessary on some bikes, most newer models have electronic ignition which does not need touching, normally.

*Valve clearances - unless you're a good home mechanic, take it to a dealer.

*Wheel bearings - grab each wheel with it off the ground and see if there is any sideways play. There should be none or maybe a trace at most.

*Steering head bearings - with the front end off the ground, grab the forks and push and pull. There should be no play.

*Swinging arm bearings - with the back wheel off the ground, check for any sideways movement in the swingarm, there should be none.

*Brakes - check fluid levels, brake hoses for deterioration, and pads/shoes for thickness.

*Cables and levers - should operate smoothly. Get some grease on lever/pedal pivot points, and get some lube down the cables, if you can. A cable oiler is a handy tool.

*Nut and bolts - go all round the motorcycle with your spanners and check that all nuts/ bolts/screws are nice and tight.

Well, that's about it for some basic maintenance, obviously, unless you're a good home mechanic, any bigger jobs will have to go to a dealer. The problem can be finding a good one with skilled mechanics you can trust. I manage to keep my Yamaha Fazer 1000 running sweet just using the steps listed above. It does help that this model only needs the valve clearances checking every 26,000 miles.

How to get Your moped running

The top three reasons why your moped isn't running are A.) a dirty carburetor B.) a faulty spark plug, or C.) worn or mis-adjusted ignition points. The most common reason is a dirty carb. If your moped isn't even running, the first thing you should check is to see if the spark plug is working. First, pull out the old spark plug and put a brand new one in the cap. Hold the metal part of the plug firmly against the cylinder head while you pedal rapidly with the key and switch on. If you see a blue spark on the spark plug, then that is good. If you don't see a spark, then clean the ignition points.

To clean the ignition points, use sandpaper, a piece of clean paper, a pair of scissors, some aerosol brake or carb cleaner, and some compressed air. Take off the ignition cover and look for the points in one of the holes in the flywheel. When you find them, lay the bike on its side and sit on something to get situated. Next, pry the points open with a small screwdriver and stick the small pieces of sandpaper (about 1/4" wide, 3" long) in between the points and let them close. Now pull out the sandpaper. Do this a few times to each side until they're smomoth. Then, pry the points open and blow them with compressed air and spray them with cleaner. Now, pull a piece of regular paper through the points to see if they come out clean and smoothly. Blow the points off again with some air and they should be good to go.

If there IS a spark, but the moped still doesn't run, squirt a spoonful of gas into the spark plug hole and try starting it. If it starts and runs for five seconds and then dies, check for fuel flow to the carb. To do this, take out the fuel line going into the carb and turn the gas on. If it doesn't flow freely out of the gas line, then you may have a vacuum operated petcock (if you do there will be another rubber line going from the engine to the petcock). Take this second line off the engine or carb and suck on it. Check for fuel flow out of the other line. If there still is none, then take off the petcock and clean it.

Dirty carburetors are the number one reason for poor moped performance. The small holes in the carb (where the air and fuel pass through) are what is dirty. You need to use compressed air to blow the dirt out. Remove the float bowl from the bottom of the carb, then try to blow air through it. If you look through and it's not clean and clear, push a piece of thin wire through. Then, use aerosol carb cleaner and compressed air to clean out all passages in the carb. Squirt the cleaner in all the small passages, then blast some air in. Do this in each direction several times, then reassemble the carb. If you can soak the entire carb in a can of cleaner overnight (remove rubber and plastic parts), even better. Then blow it out the next day.

Good luck in your quest to get your moped up and running. If all else fails, take it to a mechanic, who can do a thorough inspection to see if something major is wrong with the bike.