Essential Accessories for the Beginning Cyclist

Cycling isn't just about exercise, but also about outings with family and friends. It can also be a very good way of getting around: of commuting to work every day or doing your weekly shop. With the right accessories, you'll never find yourself unprepared on the road.

Below is the list of the most important accessories the beginning cyclist should consider buying to ensure both safety and efficiency of his/her riding experience. Some of these are more relevant to the utility cyclist (someone who rides short distances on a regular basis to get to work or do shopping), while some are more relevant to the cyclist who's riding for fun and fitness. I'll mention who it's most relevant for in the blurbs below.

Knowledge of how to ride safely

If you ride in towns, you need to know how to ride safely in traffic. This does not necessarily require a purchase, but if you want to buy a book you can either get John Franklin's Cyclecraft (more oriented towards UK riding) or John Forester's Effective Cycling (more oriented towards the US). If you don't want to spend any money you can read my article Bicycle Safety. If you are never riding in a town but are only riding on empty country lanes or offroad tracks, then you will not need to be an expert in riding in traffic, but it would be a good idea to have a look at my article anyway, as these skills can help make trips through villages safer.

Something to carry stuff

Everyone needs to carry things with them on a bike. If you're a utility rider, the main options are rucksack (aka backpack) and pannier. You've probably already got a rucksack, so no purchase is necessary. If you do buy a rucksack for utility riding, look for one that's brightly colored and has lots of reflective stuff on it to increase your visibility both night and day. Or you can buy a rucksack cover that's brightly colored and had lots of reflective stuff. Many people don't like to have anything on their backs when they ride, so a rack and panniers (bags that attach to racks with clips) are the way to go there. The longer your rides, and the heavier the load, the more important it is to get the weight off your back and onto the bike. If you buy a rack for your commuter bike, make sure you get one that has a light mounting plate on the back with holes 80mm apart, so you can mount a good rear light to it.

If you are a fun/fitness rider, your options are rucksack, saddlebag, or pockets. The rucksack option is useful when you are just starting out, since it means you can get going with one less purchase, but if you're going to be riding mainly on roads, you'll soon want that off your back. Offroad riders tend to use rucksacks that can carry water bladders (known as hydration packs or Camelbaks, after the most famous makers of these things), as water bottles tend to bounce off your bike and are more difficult to drink from when it's bumpy. If you go this route, make sure you get one with some space to carry bits and bobs (a basic toolkit, mobile phone, etc). Road riders usually either have a small pack under the seat to carry essentials, or if they are travelling really light, they will put just the bare minimum of stuff in the back pockets of thier jerseys (special cycling shirts).

Lock

If you are a utility cyclist, this is your first absolutely essential purchase (after the bike of course). The best lock for this use is a heavy hardened steel D-lock (aka U-lock in the US). Always lock your frame up to something, never just the wheels! Wheels can be easily taken off, and you might come back to find you have just a very securely locked wheel. Because wheels can be easily removed, if you have quick-release skewers on your utility bike, consider replacing them with Allen key ones. These make it more likely that your wheels will still be attached to your bike when you return to it. Alternatively, you can carry a cable lock as well to secure your wheels. Actually, it's a good idea to have a cable lock anyway if you will be locking your bike in different places, as it allows you to lock your bike to a tree or lamp post that your D-lock will not fit around.

If you're a fun/fitness cyclist, a lock will probably not be necessary when you first first start out, as you'll be doing fairly short rides that begin and end at your house, with no stops in between. But when you start doing longer rides you'll need to stop for refuelling, and cafes are ideal for this. Unless you can sit right nesxt to a window where you can keep an eye on your bike, it's best to lock it up. A thin light cable lock should be sufficient here.

Maintenance/Emergency Tools

Like any vehicle, a bicycle will require repairs from time to time and tire punctures are not uncommon on longer rides. I would say that if you are going for a ride longer than about 3 miles, then at the very least you will want to

State-of-the-Art Street Motorcycle Accessories

It is risky to trust just any motorcycle accessories. This is the reason why we have to be vigilant in choosing high-quality accessories to ensure security and protection.Every rider has his or her own different tastes when it comes to motorcycle accessories and the level of comfort needed. Most of the riders preferences depend on their gender, age and the type of terrain or road they are into every single day. Some wanted flashy colors while some solid colors. A certain rider may be in need of maximum comfort and protection while others may be needing moderate. Perhaps, the reason behind this is fragility, susceptibility to accidents and the likes. It is important that these needs are answered so as not to preempt an accident or a turbulent incident.Street motorcycles are heavy and fast motorcycles which are intended to be used for smooth surfaces. When you are out there rocking the road with these kinds of motorcycles, safety is a must. To keep you away from any untoward incident and accident, be equipped with the right street motorcycle accessories. Street motorcycle accessories can save your road performance!Street motorcycle accessories have come a long way since its inception. More and more options are made available to riders. In fact, individual differences and preferences are no longer considered a drawback because a wide-variety of options is laid down in stores.Street motorcycle accessories include cruiser grips accessories, exhausts, motorcycle sunglasses, open face helmets accessories, socks, boots, jackets, light bars, freeway bars, graphic kits, plastics, radiator braces, seat covers and skid plates for its body. In connection to its tires, there are tire irons, tire repair kits, tire flat prevention and tubes to ensure full support of the street motorcycle. Spirited industry led to the improvement of motorcycle accessories motorcycle accessories to cater to the bikers choice and to extend different designs like the ameritex fork bags, bikepack, ameritex round utility bag, tourbag/backpack/ssb and the ameritex tool bags.Going fast and in control is what makes riders feel ecstatic and powerful. In fact, riding with state-of-the-art motorcycle accessories gives an air of confidence. This experience can be very thrilling and fun. But this experience will not materialize has the street motorcycle accessories been inexistent to give the riders the protection and comfort they needed. These accessories are the reason why lots of riders feel comfortable even in their most bumpy ride.

Mini Motorcycle

Mini motorcycles are also known as pocket motorcycles. They have 25 or 50 cc engines and can run at a speed of 20 – 30 miles per hour. They weigh about 50 pounds and stand at a foot and a half high. They can be powered by oil, gas or electric engines and look exactly like a real motorcycle except they are smaller in size. The snazziest models cost thousands of dollars and come from Italy. Cheaper versions are produced in China, and cost from $200 to $500.Young and old people are attracted to mini motorcycles. They are great for college students and retired seniors to get around town. They are supposed to be used on closed racetracks, private roads or places where three are no public laws prohibiting their use. The less congested the area where a mini motorcycle is driven, the better. There are too many accidents involving mini motorcycles and cars, trucks and vans. The driver doesn’t stand a chance. Accidents occur because larger vehicles don’t see the mini motorcycle because of its low height.Many people like to use mini motorcycles nowadays as they are cheaper than a normal sized motorcycle, and they are more fuel-efficient. However, if children ride these mini motorcycles, it is advised for them to wear helmets. This is because every year, the main cause of children’s accidents comes from riding these types of vehicles. Both bodily and brain damage occurs when a child falls from a mini motorcycle. This is why there is a rule that a child must be at least 16 years of age to ride a motorized mini motorcycle.

Motorcycle Mileage Database

Visit any motorcycle forum on the Internet and you will generally see a thread about the number of miles a motorcyclist rides. Every now and then you will see someone who believes they have ridden over a million miles in their life time. In as much as a million miles would require a individual to ride 25,000 miles/year for 40 years, this is a pretty spectacular feat.As a way of tracking both my mileage as well as the mileages of others, I designed a Motorcycle Database for my website, Visit any motorcycle forum on the Internet and you will generally see a thread about the number of miles a motorcyclist rides. Every now and then you will see someone who believes they have ridden over a million miles in their life time. In as much as a million miles would require a individual to ride 25,000 miles/year for 40 years, this is a pretty spectacular feat.As a way of tracking both my mileage as well as the mileages of others, I designed a Motorcycle Database for my website, NCMotorcyclists, which allows a rider to enter information about themselves and their bikes. The database then automatically calculates the total miles ridden, the total number of days you owned the bike, and the average miles per day for each bike along with the aggregate totals for all of your bikes.Over the last seven years the database has continued to grow, particularly, in the long distance biker community, and now contains quite a bit of information. I think you will be amazed and impressed with some of the numbers. I have corresponded with a few of the top riders and have verified informally that they have, indeed, ridden those miles. Some are retired and some have long commutes to work. One rider is believed to have set a record for the most miles in one year (~126,000). If interested, visit www.ncmotorcyclists.com/miles_database.htm - it's free!, which allows a rider to enter information about themselves and their bikes. The database then automatically calculates the total miles ridden, the total number of days you owned the bike, and the average miles per day for each bike along with the aggregate totals for all of your bikes.Over the last seven years the database has continued to grow, particularly, in the long distance biker community, and now contains quite a bit of information. I think you will be amazed and impressed with some of the numbers. I have corresponded with a few of the top riders and have verified informally that they have, indeed, ridden those miles. Some are retired and some have long commutes to work. One rider is believed to have set a record for the most miles in one year (~126,000). If interested, visit Visit any motorcycle forum on the Internet and you will generally see a thread about the number of miles a motorcyclist rides. Every now and then you will see someone who believes they have ridden over a million miles in their life time. In as much as a million miles would require a individual to ride 25,000 miles/year for 40 years, this is a pretty spectacular feat.As a way of tracking both my mileage as well as the mileages of others, I designed a Motorcycle Database for the website, ncmotorcyclists, which allows a rider to enter information about themselves and their bikes. The database then automatically calculates the total miles ridden, the total number of days you owned the bike, and the average miles per day for each bike along with the aggregate totals for all of your bikes.Over the last seven years the database has continued to grow, particularly, in the long distance biker community, and now contains quite a bit of information. I think you will be amazed and impressed with some of the numbers. I have corresponded with a few of the top riders and have verified informally that they have, indeed, ridden those miles. Some are retired and some have long commutes to work. One rider is believed to have set a record for the most miles in one year (~126,000). If interested, visit miles_database - it's free!- it's free!

Future Motorcycle & One wheeled Motorcycle

Basic Guide to Maintenance Your Bike

Here we have a few things you should check on your motorcycle on a regular basis. I assume you have a handbook with the specs for your bike, if not, go get one. You may be able to find some data for your particular motorcycle on the net. You can also pick up workshop manuals for various models on eBay in PDF or CD form for little money.

Whereas with a four wheeled vehicle you may get away with being lax with things like tire pressures etc, this is not the case with a motorcycle. You should not risk compromising the safety and stability of your motorcycle, for the sake of a bit of routine maintenance.

Pre-ride check

* Tires - check condition and for foreign objects in the tread.

* Tire pressures - it is vitally important to keep your motorcycles tire pressures either on spec or very close to it.

* Oil level - always check with the bike on level ground.

* Coolant level - only if your bike's liquid cooled, obviously.

* Chain - check the tension and make sure it's well lubed.

* Brakes - check they work and that they feel good.

* Lights - check all your lights, especially the brake light, you
don't want to get rear ended, do you?

* Visual inspection - self explanatory.

* All ok - hit the road.

Periodical checks

* Check battery - see that the connections are tight; I dropped a bike once because of a loose battery connection, strange but true. Also check the electrolyte level on some batteries, a lot of newer batteries are gel filled, sealed for life types, so no need with these.

*Carb balance - if your bike is multi carbed get yourself a Morgan carbtune or similar. It can be a little tricky the first time you balance them, but when you've done it once, the second time will be easy.

*Ignition timing - only necessary on some bikes, most newer models have electronic ignition which does not need touching, normally.

*Valve clearances - unless you're a good home mechanic, take it to a dealer.

*Wheel bearings - grab each wheel with it off the ground and see if there is any sideways play. There should be none or maybe a trace at most.

*Steering head bearings - with the front end off the ground, grab the forks and push and pull. There should be no play.

*Swinging arm bearings - with the back wheel off the ground, check for any sideways movement in the swingarm, there should be none.

*Brakes - check fluid levels, brake hoses for deterioration, and pads/shoes for thickness.

*Cables and levers - should operate smoothly. Get some grease on lever/pedal pivot points, and get some lube down the cables, if you can. A cable oiler is a handy tool.

*Nut and bolts - go all round the motorcycle with your spanners and check that all nuts/ bolts/screws are nice and tight.

Well, that's about it for some basic maintenance, obviously, unless you're a good home mechanic, any bigger jobs will have to go to a dealer. The problem can be finding a good one with skilled mechanics you can trust. I manage to keep my Yamaha Fazer 1000 running sweet just using the steps listed above. It does help that this model only needs the valve clearances checking every 26,000 miles.

How to get Your moped running

The top three reasons why your moped isn't running are A.) a dirty carburetor B.) a faulty spark plug, or C.) worn or mis-adjusted ignition points. The most common reason is a dirty carb. If your moped isn't even running, the first thing you should check is to see if the spark plug is working. First, pull out the old spark plug and put a brand new one in the cap. Hold the metal part of the plug firmly against the cylinder head while you pedal rapidly with the key and switch on. If you see a blue spark on the spark plug, then that is good. If you don't see a spark, then clean the ignition points.

To clean the ignition points, use sandpaper, a piece of clean paper, a pair of scissors, some aerosol brake or carb cleaner, and some compressed air. Take off the ignition cover and look for the points in one of the holes in the flywheel. When you find them, lay the bike on its side and sit on something to get situated. Next, pry the points open with a small screwdriver and stick the small pieces of sandpaper (about 1/4" wide, 3" long) in between the points and let them close. Now pull out the sandpaper. Do this a few times to each side until they're smomoth. Then, pry the points open and blow them with compressed air and spray them with cleaner. Now, pull a piece of regular paper through the points to see if they come out clean and smoothly. Blow the points off again with some air and they should be good to go.

If there IS a spark, but the moped still doesn't run, squirt a spoonful of gas into the spark plug hole and try starting it. If it starts and runs for five seconds and then dies, check for fuel flow to the carb. To do this, take out the fuel line going into the carb and turn the gas on. If it doesn't flow freely out of the gas line, then you may have a vacuum operated petcock (if you do there will be another rubber line going from the engine to the petcock). Take this second line off the engine or carb and suck on it. Check for fuel flow out of the other line. If there still is none, then take off the petcock and clean it.

Dirty carburetors are the number one reason for poor moped performance. The small holes in the carb (where the air and fuel pass through) are what is dirty. You need to use compressed air to blow the dirt out. Remove the float bowl from the bottom of the carb, then try to blow air through it. If you look through and it's not clean and clear, push a piece of thin wire through. Then, use aerosol carb cleaner and compressed air to clean out all passages in the carb. Squirt the cleaner in all the small passages, then blast some air in. Do this in each direction several times, then reassemble the carb. If you can soak the entire carb in a can of cleaner overnight (remove rubber and plastic parts), even better. Then blow it out the next day.

Good luck in your quest to get your moped up and running. If all else fails, take it to a mechanic, who can do a thorough inspection to see if something major is wrong with the bike.

Motorcyclists are one of the most vulnerable groups of road users with Department for Transport figures showing:

• they are 45 times more likely to be killed on the road than car drivers
• motorcyclists represent less than one per cent of all road traffic but suffer 18 per cent of deaths and serious injuries on our roads.

Every road user - regardless of whether you drive a car, lorry or bike - should take responsibility for keeping each other safe.

Watch your speed. It isn't just about breaking the speed limit. Excess speed is when you are travelling too fast for a manoeuvre.

What motorcyclists can do:

Attitude

Your attitude is a major safety factor every time you go for a ride. With the right attitude and putting safety first you can make a real difference in the way you view and deal with hazards.

Aggressive behaviour and ignoring the rules of the road increases the risk to you and others. Never think 'it won't happen to me' - all too often it does.

• drive within your limits and don’t overestimate your ability
• never try to show-off to impress others
• keep to the speed limits and the Highway Code
• think of your own safety and respect the safety of others.

Get Yourself Seen

Bikes can sometimes be difficult to see due to their smaller profile. Consider taking measures to enable other road users to see you:

• consider driving with dipped headlights at all times
• wear high-visibility clothing, especially at night or other times of reduced visibility such as heavy rain or fog
• the Highway Code recommends wearing a white helmet
• if you see a vehicle about to pull out as you approach a junction, consider moving position on the road to maximise your reaction time. The movement may also attract the other driver’s attention.

Know your limits

Do you ever feel under pressure to ride beyond your own safety limits? Whether it’s thrill seeking or peer group pressure, it is often tempting to drive beyond your level of control.

If you usually speed because you are late, then plan your journey well in advance and leave a good margin of time.

Many riders filter between lines of slower moving traffic. It is easy to become complacent about this manoeuvre and forget the risks it involves. Leave a few minutes earlier so you can take more time when filtering.

Take a few moments to consider your responsibilities - family and friends - and what would happen if it all went wrong. Balance your priorities and always put safety first, it will not spoil your fun, but it might save your life.

Create space

A good rider can place the machine in the safest position on the road, relative to everything going on around them. The greater the speed, the more difficult it is to keep the bike in the safest position. Make sure you can see as well as be seen. Think about where to place the bike on the road so you can maintain your safety and allow others to see you at the earliest opportunity.

Some riders get too close to the vehicle ahead meaning the driver in front can’t see them. Drop back and give the driver ahead the opportunity to find you in their mirrors.

Being further back also increases your safety margins. If you are too close, you react to brake lights in front rather than to what you see further ahead. By building space around you, you not only improve your safety but your ability to plan and make smoother progress.

Creating space may require a little thought and knowledge, but it can make a real difference to your safety and overall enjoyment.

Overtaking

Overtaking is one of the most hazardous manoeuvres for a rider, but often it is not planned as well as it could be. To do it safely, consider the following points which should make the planning easier.

• overtake at the safest and earliest opportunity. Anticipate where an opportunity is likely to present itself and ensure you are in the right position with the correct speed and gear selected
• move so you are close enough to overtake at the earliest moment, but not too close to the vehicle in front. Engage the correct gear to allow maximum acceleration if needed. When you accelerate, deliver power smoothly to help maintain motorbike stability when completing the manoeuvre
• avoid aggressive use of the throttle or brakes when returning to your own lane - aim to drive smoothly and safely. If you have problems with this skill, find a trainer to explain and demonstrate the techniques required.

Other points

Speed and performance - most modern motorbikes have outstanding performance; even some smaller bikes have excellent acceleration. Don't underestimate how powerful your bike is.

Speed and performance of the vehicle you plan to overtake - consider its performance against that of your motorcycle. Bear in mind many family saloons have surprisingly good acceleration, even if not as good as most motorcycles.

The distance available to overtake and regain the near side safely. If it looks a little short, don’t risk it. A safer opportunity will soon present itself.

Speed and performance of oncoming traffic - think about the performance of most modern cars. The speed of oncoming traffic can be difficult to assess accurately, so if in doubt, wait for the next opportunity.

Oncoming vehicles you can't see - always assume there’s one just out of view. Consider if the available road is sufficient to do the manoeuvre safely.

Road surface

Motorcyclists are perhaps more aware of changes in road surface than any other road users. Finding the safest riding line and one that gives maximum road holding and braking capabilities is vitally important to safety.

Issues that make a difference to this are:

Construction

Roads with a good clean driving surface have a high skid resistance though this can change with the weather and other factors. The top surface of roads is normally bitumen based with chippings rolled in. This provides the sliding resistance between the road and the tyre and is tested to determine the level of skid resistance.

The surface of the chippings is the main contributor to skid resistance and the dominant factor in determining skid resistance in wet conditions.

Skidding and skid resistance

A skid occurs when one or more tyres lose normal grip on the road. The skidding resistance on a wet road is reduced by the film of water acting as a lubricant on the surface.

The more wear the road has had, the worse the drainage and the more likely motorcyclists - and drivers - are to experience a skid.

Where there is a high level of acceleration, braking and cornering, the greater the wear is on the road at that point and the risk of skidding increases.

New road surfaces

Until a new road has bedded down properly, the chippings which improve the cyclists grip on the road can still be covered. Always ride with extra caution in these circumstances.

Seasonal variations

There are many factors, including the weather, traffic flow and spillages (such as mud or oil) which can make travel more hazardous.

Winter roads (between October and March) stay wetter for longer, which can increase the skidding risk. Summer roads are a lot drier and very dusty, which can ‘polish’ the road making it more slippery.

Roads are especially treacherous when they are newly wet after a dry spell as the water and oil on the roads significantly reduces grip.

In wet conditions, especially when cornering, consider sacrificing position to avoid hazards such as grid covers, painted road markings, diesel and oil spills which can be very slippery. If you get into the habit of doing this in the dry, it will make life easier when the roads are wet.

Summer biking

Summer sees a massive increase in people taking to the roads on the motorcycles. Many of them will be occasional bikers who are less experienced than those who ride every day.

Some are the 'born again bikers' - those who are a bit older and able to afford bikes considerably more powerful than those they rode ten or 20 years before. As with anyone riding a bike, it is vital to have instruction and ensure full competence before taking to the roads.

Many underestimate the danger of summer biking. There is an increased temptation to drink and ride, the roads are less skid resistant and it is tempting to wear less clothes.

Always wear full protective clothing when on a motorbike, however tempting it may be to wear less in the hot months. Bare skin in contact with a road service, even at low speeds, can be very badly torn and leave scarring for life.

Cornering

Next to overtaking this is the discipline that most riders get wrong. Often, the rider travels too fast into the curve then finds it difficult to slow down once committed to taking the bend.

If you carry too much speed into the curve you can be faced with very serious problems. Most riders will try to sit the bike up and brake and in doing so, lose control. If you do manage to steer the machine, excess speed means you cannot lean the bike sufficiently to complete the curve, and you may well find yourself rapidly leaving the road.

Also avoid running over grid covers, rough road repairs, debris and over banding whilst the bike is banked over. Anything that unsettles a bike in a bend is bad news. Safety is the most important thing, and speed and positioning should always be sacrificed to stay safe. Also be aware of the position of oncoming vehicles - especially those drivers who cut corners and end up on your side of the road.